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Seville

Enjoyed a wonderful 5 days in Seville with Hattie! Click here to see our video of the trip.

Beautiful place, lots to see, delicious food, very reasonably priced. We mainly ate and drank our way around the city and planned as we went. This is not typical of me (as you can probably tell from this blog) but work and life has been so busy that I just didn’t get the chance to plan. It was perfect though – just what we both needed.

Tip – don’t go during the height of summer! We went towards the end of May and it was SO, SO hot, only just about bearable.

Flights
We flew from Gatwick to Seville. Flights weren’t cheap – EUR 407 (£347) return with Vueling. Check SkyScanner for best rates, but with all the disruption going on I’d then go on the airline website to actually book the tickets.

Hotel
We stayed at Hotel Monte Triana which was a 20 min walk from the centre. Basic but nice enough – we chose it for the rooftop pool (not too many in Seville) and definitely needed it for some relief from the heat. Cost: EUR 526 (£450) for 4 nights £112.50 p/n.

What we did…

The city is big and there’s lots to do / see. We split our days – mornings usually for exploring and then afternoons for sunbathing, drinks and food.

We went on an electric bike tour on the first full day (£35pp) – great for a whistle-stop tour of all the main sites with a knowledgable guide. You can then go back to anywhere you particularly enjoyed and want to explore more!

Plaza de Espana
An amazing landmark located in the stunning Parque de María – it was a fleeting stop on our bike tour and we got too drunk the afternoon we planned to go back, but definitely wish we’d spent more time here. It was built for the ‘world’s fair’ in 1929 to showcase Spain’s industry and technology.

Tiled alcoves go around the half-circle, each representing a different province of Spain. The building has been repurposed and inside you’ll now find government agencies, but it’s still a massive tourist attraction with Flamenco dancers outside. Definitely take some time to go around the park before / after – it was the prettiest one I’ve ever been in!

Seville Cathedral
An UNESCO World Heritage Site, The Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See is steeped in history. It’s the fourth largest church in the world, the largest Gothic church, and is home to the tomb of Christopher Columbus!

It was originally built as a mosque in the 1100s and turned into a cathedral over 300 years later! It has a mixture of Moorish and Gothic influences.

You can walk to the top of the tower (Torre Giralda) for gorgeous views of the city and stroll around the tree lined gardens on your way out.

The surrounding area is very pretty too, you’ll find many of the best hotels, restaurants and rooftop bars here!

Flamenco
You must watch a Flamenco show as they say it comes from Seville, (although there’s some debate about this). We went to Museo del Baile Flamenco for a 40 minute show (EUR 25 pp). Cute venue, great show.

Barrio de Triana
This is where we stayed, in ‘the neighbourhood of artisans and flamenco’. It was originally the most important district of Seville, but you won’t find any of the tourist sites here. It’s a working-class, authentic area, famous for its ceramic tiles and pottery.

There’s a great food market on during the daytime, with tiny bars / restaurants where the locals sit to eat and drink.

Other

– Royal Alcazar – we didn’t go inside but it looks really pretty
– Plaza de Toros – fortunately, regular bull fights are a thing of the past, but they do happen occasionally. The bullring is now a museum and can accommodate up to 13,000 spectators!

We spent a lot of time walking around, bouncing from restaurants to local bars, to rooftop bars. Doing that and not using taxis enabled us to see many of the different neighbourhoods.

Food and drink…

Hotel Alfonso XIII
This beautiful building in the centre is the most famous hotel in Seville, commissioned by the King of Spain. You can walk in and enjoy a drink without making a reservation. There’s a very cute, covered courtyard and a nice outdoor bar around one of the sides (we enjoyed both).

Restaurante El Mirador
Gorgeous views from this rooftop restaurant! Food was amazing but service was lacking. Views made up for it.

Mariatrifulca
Really nice restaurant with a roof terrace on the water. The tuna steak was unreal and the rest of the food was tasty too. Reasonably priced, although more expensive than most other restaurants we ate in. You need to book!
(We look very drunk in these pictures – wine goes down too easily in the sun).

Castizo
Think this was my favourite meal of the trip. Well presented, delicious food in a cute setting. There’s no outdoor seating but the cool restaurant was relief from the sun. Definitely recommend going here.

EME Cathedral Hotel
Very nice rooftop bar opposite the cathedral. Nice setting, good vibe.

Hotel Dona Maria
Super cute rooftop bar right by the cathedral. Thank god for the mist because it was a sun-trap! This hotel has a roof pool too but it’s a bit weird as people from the bar can see you sunbathing.

Paella
The bike tour guide warned us that often paella at restaurants wasn’t fresh (big dish so likely only fresh if it’s on special) and that it was best to pick up from a speciality paella place. We ate this on the go and we were STARVING. We found this place by the cathedral – did the job but not the best paella I’ve ever eaten.

La Brunilda
Another great modern tapas restaurant in a cute setting (indoor dining only). The risotto was particularly delicious.

Casa Morales
Authentic Sevillian bar – good tapas and atmosphere. The guy who took our order didn’t speak much English so we let him order for us. Not my absolute favourite but cool to try some more traditional tapas. Super cheap too.

Churros!
Churros are different in Seville to how they are in the UK – no ridges / sugar coating and the chocolate is more runny. Really enjoyed though.

Ofelia Bakery
Lovely place for breakfast down a sweet little side street.

Other bakeries / places for a snack…
Lots of great places dotted around Seville. Definitely recommend grabbing breakfast out rather than eating at a hotel – much cheaper and tastier.

Finally, here’s a list of restaurants someone sent me, recommended by a local:

– La Cacharreia – breakfast / lunch – small place with lots of atmosphere, food and juices very good
– Cafe La Centuria – churros – we went here late at night and they’d stopped serving them so maybe check online before going
– El Comercio
– El Caserio – authentic – local place for local people – home-made, quality price
– El Rinconcillo – Seville’s most ancient bar (since 1670) – tapas
– La Cantina – local with tables outside
– Taberna Coloniales – top grilled meat and other classic tapas
– Bodega Santa Cruz – small place, guests spill out onto the street
– Catalina – good service and quality
– La Azotea – contemporary cuisine using traditional ingredients
– Mechela – imaginative food
– ConTenedor – beautifully decorated restaurant, dynamic, must book


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